LIVING ON THE EDGE

Selvage denim (US) or Selvedge (UK) is a type of denim which forms a clean natural edge that does not unravel. The selvage edges are along the out-seam of the jeans, making it visible when cuffs are worn and visible or invisible at the pocket. In the early years of denim production the fabric was woven on shuttle looms, from a single thread, and with self forming natural edges at the sides (self-edge). Shuttle looms weave a narrower piece of fabric, and thus a longer piece of fabric is required to make a pair of jeans (appr. 3 yards / 2,75mtr). The selvage edge is usually stitched with colored thread. Fabric mills used these colors to differentiate between fabrics, Levi's was red, Lee was yellow and Wrangler was green. However, as denim became more and more popular in the 50s, and mass production became the focus of jeans manufacturers. The old shuttle looms were replaced by projectile looms. These new looms were capable of producing denim faster, and in bigger quantities, however the produced fabric was not woven from a single thread anymore, and lost the self-edge.

Today, selvage denim is valued for its irregularities and character, and is typically more expensive than regular denim. Selvedges in jeans usually denote high quality denim, albeit there are many factors to consider with denim quality.

CHAD @ LEE STORE UTRECHT

Last Thursday, the Lee Utrecht Store opened it's doors, in 3D,  DJ's, Drinks & Denim. I was invited by Rutger (on the right), on of the Dutch sales reps. and Nora (marketing) for the opening of this 90 square meter store at the Steenweg 26, Utrecht. The store is designed as Lee's International Store concept called The Lee Black System and it's the second in The Netherlands. The Interior is a combination of natural materials and black, vintage elements are added, like Persian rugs and 50s styled mahogany furniture. The store contains a full man & woman's collection plus a Lee 101 collection with nice dry denims and some reproductions from the archives like my favorite, the Hickory Jacket. There is just one thing I missed......where is Buddy Lee?  

THERE IS A NEW KID IN TOWN

Look what I found in my mailbox, an invitation for the grand opening of the LEE Store in Utrecht.

Coming Thursday, 5th of April the doors will be opened with a "3 D" concept, DJ's, Drinks and Denim.

I'll keep you posted on this Denim hotspot in Utrecht. (check out Lee Utrecht on Facebook).

LEE STORM RIDER JACKET - HISTORY REPEATING

Paul Newman in a Lee Storm Rider Jacket

A Raw Denim, A used and an inside out Lee Storm Rider

the original labels

"Loco" Jacket

Chambray Quilted overshirt

Alaskan lining blanket

Tonight, I paid a visit to the Lee Showrooms in Amsterdam and I got a full explanation from Rutger on one of the icons of the brand. 

In 1931, Lee introduced the famous Lee Rider jacket. It was a slim jacket that had inward slanted breast pockets for easy access. This jacket was introduced with the cowboy in mind. The "Slim" jacket was the very first shorter, more tailored western-style jacket. In 1933, Lee launched what was to become one of its most famous designs, the Storm Rider Jacket. It was a winter version of the "Slim" Lee Rider Jacket and it featured a Alaskan Blanket lining, a product which was used for horse blankets. And it had a corduroy collar, which was softer for the neck than a denim collar. 

For Fall/Winter 2012 the Alaskan Lining of the Storm Rider Jacket is the red thread of the Lee 101 line. The lining is used several garments for example in a chambray quilted overshirt, on belts, wallets a Denim "Loco" Jacket coated with Teflon and even the chairs are covered with the Alaskan lining. You can find the Lee 101 collections at selected dealers throughout Europe.

After several hours, lots of info and photo's I went home, not brainwashed, but stonewashed.

BUDDY LEE - YOU CAN'T BUST'EM

Lee Mercantile Company was founded by Henry David Lee in 1889, when Lee opened his first factory in Salina, Kansas, producing dungarees and jackets.

In 1913, the Union-All work jumpsuit was created, followed by the first-ever "Overall" in 1920 - laying the foundation for Lee's early growth. In the 1920s The silent salesman was introduced. Sales manager Chester Reynolds came up with the idea of using a doll, to "model" miniature versions of the company's clothes as a store display. The 12 inch composition dolls first appeared placed in windows of the Dayton's flagship store on Nicolett Mall in Minneapolis. If you saw the doll, displayed in a "dry goods" store it meant that the store sold the H.D. Lee brand. Lee encouraged stores to sell the dolls after the displays were taken down and later provided the dolls for retail, dressed in many versions for just usd 2,40. The first generation composition dolls were made from 1920 until 1948. The second generation was made from hard plastic and grew an inch. By the end of the production in 1962 Buddy Lee was the second highest selling doll in the United States, you can figure out yourself which doll was number 1. Thanks to Lee Amsterdam, I'm the happy owner of a third generation limited edition Buddy Lee (nr. 47 of 250). As from today he guards my books about denim and Americana. No, guys don't play with dolls.

THERE'S A NEW "MANN" IN TOWN

Michael Nijhof is the proud and enthusiastic owner of the recently opened store MANN.

He started several years ago in the fastest growing city of Holland, called Almere. Soon he got the possibility to take over the store. But it's the same when you are moving into your girlfriends place, it ain't your furniture and your colors on the wall. When he got the opportunity this winter to move to another location, he took this chance with both hands. The store is filled with industrial fittings, for the wall units he used 10 meter long old beams from demolished houses. The jeans wall is build from old wooden ladders, and they make a perfect display for the collection of Red Seal, Lee and Edwin. Michael showed me a vintage Lee Overall and a vintage Lee Jeans and told me the story of it. He is proud to have brands with a story like, Lee, Edwin, Denham, Ralph Lauren, Stone Island and Sorel. Michael gave me a scoop, for Fall 2012, he selected a fine collection of GANT Rugger. (Ps Michael, don't forget the Buddy Lee's for me).

BUDDY LEE

 

 

Buddy Lee, was an advertising mascot for Lee Jeans, during 1920 till 1962. Sales manager Chester Reynolds, later Lee's board president, came up with the idea of using a doll to "model" miniature versions of the company's clothes for store displays. The 12½-inch composition dolls first appeared in the windows of Dayton's flagship store on Nicollet Mall in Minneapolis, then were used at stores nationwide.

 

Lee encouraged stores to sell the dolls after the displays were taken down, and later provided the dolls for retail sale, including versions dressed as a cowboy, Coca-Cola deliveryman, railroad worker and gas station attendant. Starting in 1949, Buddy Lee was produced as a 13-inch hard plastic doll, along with a female version, Betty Lee.

The Buddy Lee dolls were discontinued in 1962 because they were no longer profitable. By then, Buddy Lee had become the second-highest-selling doll in the United States. On ebay you pay between 100,-- and 300,-- bucks for a doll. Nowadays  you will find Buddy Lee  displayed in the better jeans stores.