KENT & CURWEN FALL 2019 CAMPAIGN

Created in 1926, Kent & Curwen maintains its reputation for conservative styling and classic design – imagine regatta college stripes, cricket-wear and rugby knots. This latest campaign is shot by Ronan Gallagher in the London historical Two Temple Place, marking the brand’s four year anniversary under its Creative Director Daniel Kearns. Paying homage to British sporting and university-style, Kearns showcases his ability to intertwine traditional pieces with contemporary-wear.  See how he revive the Rugby Shirts and patch of the England Ruby team dated from the early 1900's

THE COLORFULL WORD OF THE DUFFEL COAT

Jack Nicholson, Art Gartfunkel and the British Marine knew it for years a Duffel Coat keeps you warm during colder days but we now know that you can also look smashing in a Duffle Coat, look at the different shade of colors we see on the street.

A duffel coat, is a coat made from duffel, a coarse, thick, woolen material. The name derives from Duffel, a town in the province of Antwerp in Belgium where the fabric originated. Duffel bags were originally made from the same material. The hood and toggle fastenings proved popular, and the coat spread across Europe by the 1850s. By 1890 it was being supplied to the British Royal Navy. After World War II, the coats became available as government surplus stock and became popular, especially with students.

WATCH OUT FOR STREET PILOTS

During early flight and throughout the First World War pilots rode in open cockpits. These daredevils of the sky were quick to wear whatever they could find that was warm and that often included whatever their personal finances could afford. There was not much in the way of 'Service Issued' military clothing issued pilots and crews, other than the standard uniform. There was nothing like a standard Bomber Jacket or Flight Jacket at that time. It took the U.S. Army until September 1917 to establish the Aviation Clothing Board. Finally, they began distributing heavy duty leather bomber jackets with high wrap around collars, zipper closures with wide thick wind flaps, snug cuffs and waits. Some even came fringed and lined with fur. The American flight and bomber jacket was born.

Even after the wars were over and the pilots went home, their jackets stayed important, becoming something of a phenomenon especially with those who hadn’t flown. It wasn’t just because these jackets were warm and fit well, but because there was something otherworldly iconic about the people who wore them as members of the newest and least-tested branch of the armed services. As technology advanced, sending pilots higher and faster into the unknown, their uniform changed, but this aura of idealized American ingenuity and military might remained.

Today the pilots don't need these sturdy leather jackets with or without a shearling lining, we wear them just on a jeans and even over a suit or a blazer. Fashion will always reinvent the use od a classic piece.

CAMPLIN - OUTFITTERS TO THE ROYAL NAVY

The Camplin Family was well known for its Navy supplies and had shops in London and Portsmouth, founded by Edgard Camplin in 1850. Later it was actually Edgard's dynamic son who started supplying uniforms to the Royal Navy in 1888. The Camplin success story really came from the British Colonies, where Charles understood the need for standardization in uniform production. From that moment on he was the one to supply uniforms to the Royal Navy in their most important Colonial Campaign. This was also the reason why he was awarded the Naval General Service medal (a medal with a blue ribbon with green stripes) and to this day the same blue and green tape is used in finishing touches to the Peacoat.

Mr Camplin was well-known for supplying uniforms to the Royal Navy. It was in fact his idea to suggest the use of the Peacoat as part of the Petty Officer's uniform. Up until then Petty Officers had the same uniform as ordinary able seamen. However they needed their own uniform to make the distinction but something that would be more practical than the Great Coat which senior Officers had. Mr Camplin than came up with the idea of a jacket, having the same important style as a coat but the practical ease in movement of a jacket. So the P. Officers got their P.Coat (P for Petty in Petty Officer) which then for phonetic reasons became the word Peacoat. This is the story behind why Mr Camplin is rightly believed by many to be the inventor of the Peacoat.

Typical for a Caplin Peacoat is the use of a Cordage. This is a short length of cord used as an extension for buttoning up the double breasted jacket. The cordage was used in colder climates when the added layers of clothing under the uniform meant that the jacket couldn't be buttoned up by using the buttonhole. Each seaman had his own cordage made to measure for his sea voyages.

THE INDIAN TRADE BLANKET

Let’s begin at the beginning – what is an Indian trade blanket? Indian trade blankets are commercially woven wool blankets with striking geometric patterns. Trade blankets have long been an integral part of Native American culture. They’re used for clothing, bedding, warmth, ceremonial dances and gifts for important occasions.

The original Indian trade blankets were the multi-striped point blankets imported by the Hudson’s Bay Company from English woolen mills. From 1780 to 1890 the point blanket was a staple in every fur trader’s inventory and thousands upon thousands found their way into indigenous hands.

However, another weaving tradition began in the 18th century. The Navajo tribe of the American Southwest wove sheep’s wool into classic wearing blankets that became coveted trade items.

When the Indian Wars ended in 1890 the reservation system began. With all the tribes now wards of the United States government, federally licensed Indian trading posts were established. The Indian traders promptly invented a new textile – the Navajo rug. It was a much heavier textile than the traditional Navajo wearing blanket and designed specifically for the floors of non-Indian homes. The designs were based on the Oriental rugs popular in the eastern United States. From that time forward the Navajo ceased making wearing blankets and wove only rugs for sale through the white traders.

With the Navajos now exclusively weaving rugs, commercial woolen mill operators saw an opportunity to sell their machine-made blankets to the Indians and the result was Indians selling rugs to whites and whites selling Indian blankets to Native Americans – a practice that continues to this day. For over a hundred and ten years Indian blankets have been made for Indians, not by them!

Indian trade blankets are often referred to generically as Pendleton blankets. While Pendleton is the only pioneer Indian blanket manufacturer still in existence, there were many companies that made Indian blankets.

 If you want to know more about these beautiful blankets Barry Friedman (who wrote the above mentioned text) published 2 great books about these wool blankets called Chasing Rainbows and Still Chasing Rainbows another great book is called Language of the Robe written by Kapoun & Lohrmann.