For Spring, Michael Bastian found a muse in Miles Davis—both sonically and sartorially. “His progression is so interesting,” said the designer. “His sound went from very controlled cocktail music to making experimental frog noises on the trumpet . . . and his look went from sort of Ivy League prep to really freaky.”
Bastian is gifted at taking themes and distilling them, subtly, into garments that are ultra-luxurious (a friend of this reviewer likes to call him the American Loro Piana). He studied Davis’s penchant for narrow double-breasted suits, and made a knockout tuxedo with similar buttoning. Channeling the jazz star’s funkier vibes, Bastian wove cord leather lacing down the entire leg of moss green corduroy trousers (they’re adventurous, though manageable). Even a Lurex intarsia trumpet on a navy cashmere sweater, the most direct nod to his inspiration, felt cool and not camp.
In jazz, too, Bastian located a sporty tempo—he had some excellent double-face track jackets, and a perforated element that ran from anoraks to suede inlays on jumpers. “I geek out over fabric,” he said, lifting a lean cotton-mesh blazer to reveal that it’s entirely see-through in sunlight. He has further reason to geek out: Imminently, Bastian is revealing a diffusion line, with “suits that are in the $600 to $700 range.” Music, no doubt, to many a gents’ ears. (text & pics via Vogue.com)